If you've read here you know that I have a thing for cocktails. One of the beverages I've had trouble with is making a Mass Produced (large volume/pitcher quantities) Margarita. It would cost too much and frankly be a waste to make a pitcher the way I make an individual glass so I've been working on locking down the ideal recipe and I've finally done it.
Start with Sauza Margarita mix - there are no substitutes, nothing compares if you do not start with this you're going to be pushing swill on your friends/guests. You will need twice the amount of mix as tequila so what I will usually do is:
>> Buy 1x handle tequila and 2x handles mix
For your tequila I have found that sauza blanco or margaritaville blanco are excellent tequilas to use for flavor and price point. Plus both come in handles (1/2 gallons / 1.75 liters).
Now for the recipie:
2x handles Sauza Margarita Mix (3.5 liters)
1x handle Tequial (1.75 liters)
2 cups Triple Sec (16 oz) - try to use the Hiram Walker 60 proof
1 cup Rosie's Lime juice (8 oz)
Try to mix ahead of time (1 day is optimal) and refridgerate to let the flavor mix and reduce the watering down when serving over ice.
*****DO NOT BLEND*****
Hope you enjoy!
Sunday, September 6, 2009
Wednesday, August 26, 2009
Cooking the Perfect Piece of Meat
Cooking meat is a Man thing. Since the discovery of fire Man has cooked meat over it. There is no reason to change that now; sure there are alternatives and it is nice to change things up from time to time (i.e. Rib Eye cooked in a cast iron skillet with butter) but your best bet is to stick with what is tried and true.
What you need to remember is a cook is only as good as his ingredients. You want to start with the best cuts of meat you can afford and cook it very soon (0-3 days) from purchase. You want to look for local, free range, grass fed if you're getting Beef; Corn = Crap. Pork and Lamb, try to get local and/or organic. You're likely to find your best selections, quality, and cuts at local markets/butchers - they focus on quality not quantity and they will have butchers that can help guide your selection.
Now lets get to seasoning - when you buy good meat you want it to be the star, not a sauce or marinade. You want to season it with a *little* olive oil (just enough to keep it wet), salt and pepper (be as liberal as you like) and you want to do this up to 24 hours before cooking to allow flavors to sink in. You can also add other spices to your tastes. My favorites: Ground Corriander, Garlic Powder, dried and crushed rosemary, and cumin (use this sparingly as it's powerful). Make sure to coat all sides of the meat and allow to sit. If you're pressed for time you can pull out the meat 20-30 min before you plan to start cooking so you can season it and allow it to come to room temp.
Lets get to cooking! Like I said before I think the BBQ is the best method for cooking meat if you want my suggestions for other methods please request them and they will be provided. As said above, you want you meat to be room temp and seasoned prior to going on the grill. Additionally, you want to start with a hot grill - if using gas, let your grill run on med-hi for 5-7 minutes before putting the meat on. If using charcoal, 5-10 minutes after spreading the coals and putting the grill (grate) on. Now comes the easy part, reduce heat to low (turn nob or spread coals), put meat on, close lid, walk away. You want to let it sit and cook for about 4-7 minutes - thicker = more time - before you open the lid. Once it has cooked for said time, flip, close lid and repeat 4-7 minutes.
**Keep in mind you need to keep an eye on the grill for excessive smoke and/or flame ups. dowse these immediately or you'll char your meal**
Now you've let your meat cook on both side and it should be pretty close to being done. You want to insert a meat thermometer (preferably digital) into the thickest part of the thickest piece and check the temp. I have found that once the meat reaches 5-6 degrees below the recommended cooking temp (usually on thermometer) is the best time to remove it from the heat.
***Things to remember - I am not condoning eating unsafe/undercooked meat. Cooking meat kills the bad things in it. If you choose to cook you meat to a temp lower than recommended by the USDA you are taking a risk***
Continue to let the meat cook on each side for 0.5-2 minutes until it reaches your target temp.
Once the meat has reached your target temp take it off the heat and let it rest for 5-10 minutes tented with foil (keep some heat in but not all). This allows the loose/hot juices to be absorbed back into the meat and not run out when cutting. I prefer serving without sauces/dressings/glazes as they take away from the meat being the star.
I hope this helps you Do Man Stuff
What you need to remember is a cook is only as good as his ingredients. You want to start with the best cuts of meat you can afford and cook it very soon (0-3 days) from purchase. You want to look for local, free range, grass fed if you're getting Beef; Corn = Crap. Pork and Lamb, try to get local and/or organic. You're likely to find your best selections, quality, and cuts at local markets/butchers - they focus on quality not quantity and they will have butchers that can help guide your selection.
Now lets get to seasoning - when you buy good meat you want it to be the star, not a sauce or marinade. You want to season it with a *little* olive oil (just enough to keep it wet), salt and pepper (be as liberal as you like) and you want to do this up to 24 hours before cooking to allow flavors to sink in. You can also add other spices to your tastes. My favorites: Ground Corriander, Garlic Powder, dried and crushed rosemary, and cumin (use this sparingly as it's powerful). Make sure to coat all sides of the meat and allow to sit. If you're pressed for time you can pull out the meat 20-30 min before you plan to start cooking so you can season it and allow it to come to room temp.
Lets get to cooking! Like I said before I think the BBQ is the best method for cooking meat if you want my suggestions for other methods please request them and they will be provided. As said above, you want you meat to be room temp and seasoned prior to going on the grill. Additionally, you want to start with a hot grill - if using gas, let your grill run on med-hi for 5-7 minutes before putting the meat on. If using charcoal, 5-10 minutes after spreading the coals and putting the grill (grate) on. Now comes the easy part, reduce heat to low (turn nob or spread coals), put meat on, close lid, walk away. You want to let it sit and cook for about 4-7 minutes - thicker = more time - before you open the lid. Once it has cooked for said time, flip, close lid and repeat 4-7 minutes.
**Keep in mind you need to keep an eye on the grill for excessive smoke and/or flame ups. dowse these immediately or you'll char your meal**
Now you've let your meat cook on both side and it should be pretty close to being done. You want to insert a meat thermometer (preferably digital) into the thickest part of the thickest piece and check the temp. I have found that once the meat reaches 5-6 degrees below the recommended cooking temp (usually on thermometer) is the best time to remove it from the heat.
***Things to remember - I am not condoning eating unsafe/undercooked meat. Cooking meat kills the bad things in it. If you choose to cook you meat to a temp lower than recommended by the USDA you are taking a risk***
Continue to let the meat cook on each side for 0.5-2 minutes until it reaches your target temp.
Once the meat has reached your target temp take it off the heat and let it rest for 5-10 minutes tented with foil (keep some heat in but not all). This allows the loose/hot juices to be absorbed back into the meat and not run out when cutting. I prefer serving without sauces/dressings/glazes as they take away from the meat being the star.
I hope this helps you Do Man Stuff
Monday, May 18, 2009
Stocking your home (wet) bar
For those of you who are throw backs to an earlier time when adults enjoyed cocktails (ref AMC's Mad Men) this is the post for you.
This is a guide for people who think a cocktail is more than canned light beer or or shots of vodka from a plastic handle (half gallon container). You have to start with the basic tools first:
Shaker - it just needs to be stainless steel, beyond that is your choice. If you got for the 3 piece shaker (cup/base, strainer, lid) you can avoid getting a separate strainer
Muddler - This is a tool to mash things like citrus zest, mint leaves, sugar, etc. it is essential in the preparation of the currently popular Mojito. You want something 8-10" long and wood.
Jiggers (optional) - These are a useful tool for beginners (or people who like elaborate/exact recipies) because they help you measure your liquids. These should be stainless steel and you want 2; one that is 1oz/2oz and one that is 1.5oz/0.75oz. so you have your basic measurements covered
Now time to move onto the basic booze and mixers. We'll start with mixers because they are easy.
Tonic Water, Club Soda, Ginger Ale, 7-Up, Coke - These are all the basic carbonated mixers that you should by in cans. The 7-up and Coke you can get in the nice new 8oz cans and the rest, go to Safeway (or it's local equivalent) and get the 6-pack of 12oz cans for a dollar a pack. This covers all your most basic and classic cocktails.
Orange and Cranberry Juice - You want to look for individual bottles/cans of juice so a big jug does not spoil. Keeping them in the fridge (even when unopened) will make them last longer flavor wise. Keeping 2-4 bottles of each on hand is ideal. Additionally, these are the most common juices in recipes. If you want to add others Pineapple and Apple would be the next 2. Both come in cans in supermarkets.
Sweet and Sour Mix - Finest Call makes the best sweet and sour and the bottle has a built in pourer (sp?). You can find this at most supermarkets
Grenadine and Lime Juice - Rosie's is the maker, they will be in any liquor store, supermarket, bar, etc. Get the small bottles because the lime juice will mold after time.
Now onto the hard stuff. Please remember these are recommendations to satisfy the masses and allow you to make numerous cocktail recipes. If you have a favorite or must have that is not listed please feel free to add/substitute it.
Vodka - An essential neutral grail spirit (meaning has no flavor). I'm old school and HATE all the flavored Vodkas currently popular and I also believe it has no place in a Martini (Sorry James Bond). Vodka is used in tons of cocktails and is a must have. Skyy or Stoli (Stolichnaya) are the recommended varieties for smoothness, purity, and price point.
Rum - This is an easy one, get a bottle of Bacardi light rum and we're done
Gin - This is where you'll get into arguments with people. It seems like everybody has an opinion and a favorite. What is funny is that when people start drinking gin they just go to the most expensive major labels: Tanqueray and Bombay Sapphire. These are not bad Gins and nothing is wrong with them, but they will cost you more. I recommend either Gordon's Gin (worlds #1 selling gin and great price) or regular Bombay Gin. I personally keep Beefeater in the bar at home because that is my proven favorite and isn't terrible on price.
Tequila - STAY AWAY FROM JOSE CUERVO! And stay away from cheap tequila, you get what you pay for and it is very important with tequila. For starters you want a Reposado tequila, this means rested (in oak barrels), this is a good middle ground, doesn't kill you to mix and is good and smooth in shots. In order of cost (lowest to highest) I recommend El Jimador, Sauza Hornitos, Cazadores. Any of the 3 would be solid additions to your bar and not induce your gag reflex.
Whisk(e)y - It's spelled with the "e" if it is NOT Scotch. This area has the most options because of all the varieties available (bourbon, rye, canadian, japanese, irish, single malt scotch, blended scotch, tennesse, straight, blended). I'm going to recommend a bourbon that is found nationally and in stores of all levels: Jim Beam Black. This is a bourbon that is aged 8 years, mixes well and shoots well.
Triple Sec - Hiram Walker or DeKuyper - Done.
I hope this is helpful and leads to lots of fun parties and good drinks.
This is a guide for people who think a cocktail is more than canned light beer or or shots of vodka from a plastic handle (half gallon container). You have to start with the basic tools first:
Shaker - it just needs to be stainless steel, beyond that is your choice. If you got for the 3 piece shaker (cup/base, strainer, lid) you can avoid getting a separate strainer
Muddler - This is a tool to mash things like citrus zest, mint leaves, sugar, etc. it is essential in the preparation of the currently popular Mojito. You want something 8-10" long and wood.
Jiggers (optional) - These are a useful tool for beginners (or people who like elaborate/exact recipies) because they help you measure your liquids. These should be stainless steel and you want 2; one that is 1oz/2oz and one that is 1.5oz/0.75oz. so you have your basic measurements covered
Now time to move onto the basic booze and mixers. We'll start with mixers because they are easy.
Tonic Water, Club Soda, Ginger Ale, 7-Up, Coke - These are all the basic carbonated mixers that you should by in cans. The 7-up and Coke you can get in the nice new 8oz cans and the rest, go to Safeway (or it's local equivalent) and get the 6-pack of 12oz cans for a dollar a pack. This covers all your most basic and classic cocktails.
Orange and Cranberry Juice - You want to look for individual bottles/cans of juice so a big jug does not spoil. Keeping them in the fridge (even when unopened) will make them last longer flavor wise. Keeping 2-4 bottles of each on hand is ideal. Additionally, these are the most common juices in recipes. If you want to add others Pineapple and Apple would be the next 2. Both come in cans in supermarkets.
Sweet and Sour Mix - Finest Call makes the best sweet and sour and the bottle has a built in pourer (sp?). You can find this at most supermarkets
Grenadine and Lime Juice - Rosie's is the maker, they will be in any liquor store, supermarket, bar, etc. Get the small bottles because the lime juice will mold after time.
Now onto the hard stuff. Please remember these are recommendations to satisfy the masses and allow you to make numerous cocktail recipes. If you have a favorite or must have that is not listed please feel free to add/substitute it.
Vodka - An essential neutral grail spirit (meaning has no flavor). I'm old school and HATE all the flavored Vodkas currently popular and I also believe it has no place in a Martini (Sorry James Bond). Vodka is used in tons of cocktails and is a must have. Skyy or Stoli (Stolichnaya) are the recommended varieties for smoothness, purity, and price point.
Rum - This is an easy one, get a bottle of Bacardi light rum and we're done
Gin - This is where you'll get into arguments with people. It seems like everybody has an opinion and a favorite. What is funny is that when people start drinking gin they just go to the most expensive major labels: Tanqueray and Bombay Sapphire. These are not bad Gins and nothing is wrong with them, but they will cost you more. I recommend either Gordon's Gin (worlds #1 selling gin and great price) or regular Bombay Gin. I personally keep Beefeater in the bar at home because that is my proven favorite and isn't terrible on price.
Tequila - STAY AWAY FROM JOSE CUERVO! And stay away from cheap tequila, you get what you pay for and it is very important with tequila. For starters you want a Reposado tequila, this means rested (in oak barrels), this is a good middle ground, doesn't kill you to mix and is good and smooth in shots. In order of cost (lowest to highest) I recommend El Jimador, Sauza Hornitos, Cazadores. Any of the 3 would be solid additions to your bar and not induce your gag reflex.
Whisk(e)y - It's spelled with the "e" if it is NOT Scotch. This area has the most options because of all the varieties available (bourbon, rye, canadian, japanese, irish, single malt scotch, blended scotch, tennesse, straight, blended). I'm going to recommend a bourbon that is found nationally and in stores of all levels: Jim Beam Black. This is a bourbon that is aged 8 years, mixes well and shoots well.
Triple Sec - Hiram Walker or DeKuyper - Done.
I hope this is helpful and leads to lots of fun parties and good drinks.
Wednesday, May 13, 2009
Filling up your toolbox (part 3/conclusion)
For the next installment of the necessary tools we feature the following (remember, recommended brands looks like this)
- Drill Accessories - this is stuff like drill bits, screw/nut driver bits, etc. This is essential stuff and you want to buy the best you can afford. DeWalt has a few kits that are great, you want to look for an assortment of screw and nut driving bits, a 1/4" and 3/8" socket driver and drill bits up to at least 3/16". This will cover you for most projects.
Especially handy is if you get a quick change adapter with the kit - this prevents you from having to loosen and tighten for every change (great when piloting and driving multiple screws)
- Socket Set - A socket wrench is what you will use to when it comes to bolts and nuts. Their compact design and ratcheting action allows them to fit in small places, apply a lot of torque, and tighten/loosen bolts/nuts with minimal movement.
Quality is important in a socket wrench, you will need to spend a little money and get a Husky, Kobalt, or Craftsman set. These all have lifetime guarantees and are quality products.
The next step is the size/composition of the kit. You'll want to look in the 50-60 piece range. And the kit should include a 1/4" drive wrench and a 3/8" drive wrench and have sockets up to 3/4 - 7/8". Bonus items to look for are deep sockets (approx 2-2.5" long vs. .75-1" standard), extensions (at least a 3" extension to get to hard to reach places), and spark plug sockets (2 universal sizes that have rubber to prevent electrical issues).
I hope this is/was helpful. Always remember, you get what you pay for and buy the best you can afford.
- Drill Accessories - this is stuff like drill bits, screw/nut driver bits, etc. This is essential stuff and you want to buy the best you can afford. DeWalt has a few kits that are great, you want to look for an assortment of screw and nut driving bits, a 1/4" and 3/8" socket driver and drill bits up to at least 3/16". This will cover you for most projects.
Especially handy is if you get a quick change adapter with the kit - this prevents you from having to loosen and tighten for every change (great when piloting and driving multiple screws)
- Socket Set - A socket wrench is what you will use to when it comes to bolts and nuts. Their compact design and ratcheting action allows them to fit in small places, apply a lot of torque, and tighten/loosen bolts/nuts with minimal movement.
Quality is important in a socket wrench, you will need to spend a little money and get a Husky, Kobalt, or Craftsman set. These all have lifetime guarantees and are quality products.
The next step is the size/composition of the kit. You'll want to look in the 50-60 piece range. And the kit should include a 1/4" drive wrench and a 3/8" drive wrench and have sockets up to 3/4 - 7/8". Bonus items to look for are deep sockets (approx 2-2.5" long vs. .75-1" standard), extensions (at least a 3" extension to get to hard to reach places), and spark plug sockets (2 universal sizes that have rubber to prevent electrical issues).
I hope this is/was helpful. Always remember, you get what you pay for and buy the best you can afford.
Wednesday, April 29, 2009
Filling up your toolbax (Part 2)
For the next installment of the necessary tools we feature the following (remember, recommended brands looks like this)
- Cordless Drill - This is something you'll use for drilling pilot holes, driving screws into things, making holes in stuff you want to, etc. It is really a MUST HAVE, one thing to remember when looking is that you need to buy a drill for what you're going to use it for. If you're a contractor you need a heavy duty contractor grade tool. If you're a Joe/Jane homeowner/renter the you need a lot less. The important differences between contractor and homeowner grade are:
> Minutes of usage per charge (contractor grade batteries last longer per charge)
> Chuck (what holes drill bits) - on the contractor grade, you will typically see a ratcheting
chuck which allows a tighter grip with less effort on the bits. This is a nice feature but might
not be worth $100+ to you
> Drill speed/power - an 18 volt DeWalt will go faster and provide more torque than an 18 volt
Ryobi
The first thing to look at is how much power do I really need??? I would not advise getting anything under a 12 volt as it would restrict your use to go lower (and there are few if any left offering 7.2 and 9.6 drills anymore). The only exception to this is the Makita 9.6 Volt (~$100.00), this is a powerful, lightweight, compact tool that you will be happy with. If you want to spend a little less then look at Black and Decker, Ryobi, and Skil.
If you think you're going to need a lot of power go with an 18 volt - but remember it will be heavy and large. If you're going to be hanging pictures, putting up shelves, and doing small projects get a 12 volt. The important thing to remember is these tips are for the average person. If you like to do a lot of home improvement projects and/or bigger jobs then a DeWalt/Makita/Bosch tool would be better for you. Hope this helps.
To Be continued....... (only 1 more installment)
- Cordless Drill - This is something you'll use for drilling pilot holes, driving screws into things, making holes in stuff you want to, etc. It is really a MUST HAVE, one thing to remember when looking is that you need to buy a drill for what you're going to use it for. If you're a contractor you need a heavy duty contractor grade tool. If you're a Joe/Jane homeowner/renter the you need a lot less. The important differences between contractor and homeowner grade are:
> Minutes of usage per charge (contractor grade batteries last longer per charge)
> Chuck (what holes drill bits) - on the contractor grade, you will typically see a ratcheting
chuck which allows a tighter grip with less effort on the bits. This is a nice feature but might
not be worth $100+ to you
> Drill speed/power - an 18 volt DeWalt will go faster and provide more torque than an 18 volt
Ryobi
The first thing to look at is how much power do I really need??? I would not advise getting anything under a 12 volt as it would restrict your use to go lower (and there are few if any left offering 7.2 and 9.6 drills anymore). The only exception to this is the Makita 9.6 Volt (~$100.00), this is a powerful, lightweight, compact tool that you will be happy with. If you want to spend a little less then look at Black and Decker, Ryobi, and Skil.
If you think you're going to need a lot of power go with an 18 volt - but remember it will be heavy and large. If you're going to be hanging pictures, putting up shelves, and doing small projects get a 12 volt. The important thing to remember is these tips are for the average person. If you like to do a lot of home improvement projects and/or bigger jobs then a DeWalt/Makita/Bosch tool would be better for you. Hope this helps.
To Be continued....... (only 1 more installment)
Wednesday, April 22, 2009
Filling up your toolbox (Part 1)
When you live on your own a basic tool set is a necessity. The basic items you need and the recommended brands to purchase are:
- Screwdrivers - You want to get a set of varying sizes of Phillips and Flat Heat (aka slot/slotted) Husky/Kobalt/Craftsman.
- Hammer - A 16 oz claw (smooth face) hammer with a fiberglass handle is ideal brand is unimportant.
- Crescent (aka adjustable) Wrench(s) - if you only get 1, get an 8"; but ideal is a set made by Crescent that is a 6" and 10" for around $20. Crescent/Klein
- Groove lock/Groove joint pliers - these are commonly known as Channel Locks (which is a brand) and are like a cross between a wrench and pliers. You want to get a 10" pair or larger or a 3 piece set with small medium and large (6", 8-10", 12-14"). Crescent
To Be Continued....
- Screwdrivers - You want to get a set of varying sizes of Phillips and Flat Heat (aka slot/slotted) Husky/Kobalt/Craftsman.
- Hammer - A 16 oz claw (smooth face) hammer with a fiberglass handle is ideal brand is unimportant.
- Crescent (aka adjustable) Wrench(s) - if you only get 1, get an 8"; but ideal is a set made by Crescent that is a 6" and 10" for around $20. Crescent/Klein
- Groove lock/Groove joint pliers - these are commonly known as Channel Locks (which is a brand) and are like a cross between a wrench and pliers. You want to get a 10" pair or larger or a 3 piece set with small medium and large (6", 8-10", 12-14"). Crescent
To Be Continued....
Saturday, April 18, 2009
Why Blog?
I have always bad mouthed blogs and said they were dumb and said that anybody with something good enough to share would actually be published. I held fast by this position even when my wife started a blog - I'm sure she loved that.
So why am I writing? I've learned a lot of things over the years from my Father, Grandfather, Uncles, Friends, Trial and Error, Good Luck/Guess, Schooling, etc on Doing Man Stuff and there is a lot of people out there who were not able to pick up these tools. So I want to share these things.
Now you might ask yourself, What is Doing Man Stuff? I would tell you, doing man stuff is everything from making a perfect burger (from gound beef to on the table) to sharpening knives to home/car repairs to mixing drinks to selecting tools for your tool box/chest. I will share my accumulated wisdom and hopefully help people out Doing Man Stuff
So why am I writing? I've learned a lot of things over the years from my Father, Grandfather, Uncles, Friends, Trial and Error, Good Luck/Guess, Schooling, etc on Doing Man Stuff and there is a lot of people out there who were not able to pick up these tools. So I want to share these things.
Now you might ask yourself, What is Doing Man Stuff? I would tell you, doing man stuff is everything from making a perfect burger (from gound beef to on the table) to sharpening knives to home/car repairs to mixing drinks to selecting tools for your tool box/chest. I will share my accumulated wisdom and hopefully help people out Doing Man Stuff
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